Provenance: Byobu

prov-e-nance \ˈpräv-nən(t)s, ˈprä-və-ˌnän(t)s\
noun. the place of origin or earliest known history of something.

Guest edited by Jacqueline Wein, Tokyo Jinja

Provenance: Byobu | Guest Edited by Jacqueline Wein, Tokyo Jinja | CLOTH & KIND

Perhaps the very essence of Japan can be found in the hand painted screens, called byobu, which have flourished as an art form in Japan since the 8th century. Byobu literally means “wind wall”  which gives a clear sense of their original purpose – to block drafts. Over time, their mobility and flexibility allowed them to be used almost anywhere, to block unsightly objects or repurpose a room, as well as serving as beautiful backdrops for tea ceremony, ikebana and visiting dignitaries. Ornate screens and those using gold and silver leaf helped proclaim the status of their owner. Like much of Japanese artwork, screens originated in China but were slowly but surely domesticated and changed in Japan, with a high point being the introduction of paper hinges, allowing the artist a single large canvas to create an image, rather than completely divided panels.

I considered writing on other subjects this month, but with my imminent departure from Tokyo, I realized that I had to cover something very near and dear to my heart. Add to that my discovery, at a big antiques fair earlier this month, a divine silver leaf byobu painted with naturalistic pine in the richest of greens and my topic was set.

Provenance: Byobu | Guest Edited by Jacqueline Wein, Tokyo Jinja | CLOTH & KIND

Of course this beauty came home with me where I cannot stop admiring the finesse of the painter who implied mountains in the background with the merest hint of line. The silver leaf literally seems to glow as if lit from within.

Provenance: Byobu | Guest Edited by Jacqueline Wein, Tokyo Jinja | CLOTH & KIND

The period between the late 16th to the 17th century is considered the “golden age” of byobu painting, with daimyo and samurai leaders commissioning works of art on a large-scale, designed to decorate their castles and awe their constituents with their wealth and power. Screens from this period often continue to reflect a bold Chinese heritage and make free use of bold brushstrokes and Zen themes.

Provenance: Byobu | Guest Edited by Jacqueline Wein, Tokyo Jinja | CLOTH & KIND

Prosperity under the Tokugawa shogunate from the early 17th century through the mid-19th century, encouraged painters of various schools to create screens in many different styles – not just for the samurai and aristocratic elites, but for wealthy farmers, artisans and merchants. The Kano school is perhaps the most well-known, being the dominant school style for nearly 400 years. The Kano family itself produced many great artists and many students of the school went on to take the Kano name. The Rinpa school, created in 17th century Kyoto, is one of the other most famous schools, known particularly for the work of brothers Ogata Korin and Ogata Kenzan. I have written about the Ogata Korin iris masterpieces before, and they continue to be some of my favorites.

Provenance: Byobu | Guest Edited by Jacqueline Wein, Tokyo Jinja | CLOTH & KIND

Other schools include the Tosa school, whose subject matter and techniques derived from ancient Japanese art, as opposed to schools influenced by Chinese art, notably the Kano school. However, by the late 17th century divisions between schools had become less marked as the artists willingness to experiment broadened.

As the breadth of topics widened, so too did screen commissioning and ownership. Most common were pairs of full height 6 panel screens, but other shapes and sizes proliferated with specific names and uses. Topics such as the four seasons, flower studies and detailed works featuring the Tale of Genji and other stories were popular. I particularly enjoy some of the more casual screens showing everyday life – like this pair of tagasode screens – meaning “Whose Sleeves?” a common theme depicting beautiful kimonos draped across a wooden rack. Generally unsigned, tagasode screens are thought to have been painted by local artists whose ready-made works were sold to buyers off the street, rather than being commissioned.

Provenance: Byobu | Guest Edited by Jacqueline Wein, Tokyo Jinja | CLOTH & KIND

Today, screens are more likely to be hung on the wall rather than stood on the floor. They lose some of their visual movement that way, but it also enhances the viewers ability to encompass the painting directly. I love the parallel between the silver leaf grids in the screen and the Bennison fabric pattern in this room by Windsor Smith.

Provenance: Byobu | Guest Edited by Jacqueline Wein, Tokyo Jinja | CLOTH & KIND

Finely detailed story screens like this 17th century byobu depicting the Genki Heike Battle between the Minamoto clan and the Taira clan may have had their heyday in that century, but feel just as relevant today when mixed with an antique Spanish refractory table and patchwork boro in Amy Katoh‘s riverfront home.

Provenance: Byobu | Guest Edited by Jacqueline Wein, Tokyo Jinja | CLOTH & KIND

Their detail or simplicity, their ever-changing response to light, their functionality and portability and their ability to work in any style decor, make byobu any decorator’s best friend. For more images and information about these Japanese beauties, you can visit my blog Tokyo Jinja and my Byobu Board on Pinterest.

Have you used byobu in your home or a client project? We’d love to hear about it.

IMAGE CREDITS | All byobu screens via The Metropolitan Museum of Art, other credits as noted and linked to in the post above.

Show & Tell: Anne-Marie Midy & Jorge Almada

Today’s Show & Tell guests are Anne-Marie Midy & Jorge Almada of Casamidy. Their incredibly unique furniture company combines contemporary design with traditional artisan methods of manufacturing and the results are astonishingly beautiful. You may recall that Laura Aviva of L’Aviva Home mentioned Casamidy in her recent Limelight post here on the blog, and I’ve also been a long time Casamidy admirer so you’ll find them listed in CLOTH & KIND’s Little Black Book as well as an abundance of their pieces on my furniture board on Pinterest. I quite simply can not rave enough about the design and craftsmanship that is coming out of this beautiful company and so I’m thrilled to welcome Anne-Marie and Jorge to the blog today to tell us about a favorite textile that is in their home.

“We have a wonder fabric that we almost found by pure chance. In Mexico City there is an area that specializes in “lonas” (duck canvas). They no longer sell canvas, but plastic tarps. In a hidden shop and after much looking we found a waxed cotton fabric, which has proven to be an inspiration to many of our new designs.”


IMAGE | A fond memory from Jorge’s childhood inspires his love for this fabric that he and Anne-Marie now use on many of their furniture pieces.

“The fabric is waxed and backed in vinyl. It is completely waterproof yet does not feel synthetic to the touch. We also love the grey-green hue, which is combines with everything whether it is set against iron, oak or bright colors. The fabric is very unique in that it is rigid without being thick. This makes it perfect for paneling over metal frames as the fabric doesn’t give.”

IMAGES | Top: The fabric is used on the sofa in Anne-Marie & Jorge’s living room at their home in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. Bottom: Their dog, Toka, resting on the virtually indestructible fabric.

“Because it is so perfect for weekend, summer or kids it enables us to design furniture that is really intended to be used in a rough manner.”

Provenance: Kuba Cloth

prov-e-nance \ˈpräv-nən(t)s, ˈprä-və-ˌnän(t)s\
noun. the place of origin or earliest known history of something.


ABOVE | Fabric Detail

Kuba Cloth is a rather magical kind of textile to me – it’s organic and earthy, made in a primitive sort of a way, yet reads as quite modern when used just right in interior design. I’ve been drawn to it for a long time and have been collecting lovely vintage pieces that really strike my fancy whenever I stumble across them. Some I’ve used in my own home, like the one below, and others I’m saving for clients or to sell in CLOTH & KIND’s online atelier which will be launching later this year (oh, if you’d like to be notified when the shop launches, please do sign up here).


ABOVE | My own vintage Kuba Cloth, mounted on nubby burlap and framed in a simple acrylic box, makes a total statement at the top of the stairs in my home.

Part of what makes ethnic textiles like Kuba Cloth so incredibly beautiful, at least to me, is knowing their history and understanding the time, technique, cultural significance and love that went into creating them. Is the same true for you? I hope so! It’s because of this that I’ve created this new column. On a monthly basis Provenance will offer a scholarly nod to the history of iconic styles in textile & interior design. Since this is the first, please don’t be shy about letting me know what you think and if you have any suggestions for styles you’d like to see covered in future Provenance posts.


ABOVE | Fabric Detail | Bedroom

ABOUT KUBA CLOTH
Using the leaf of the raffia tree, the Kuba people of the Congo first hand cut, and then weave the strips of leaf to make pieces of fabric, often called raffia cloth. There are several different sub groups of the Kuba people and each group has different and unique ways to make the fabric – contributing to the wide variety of styles you’ll find of this fabric. Some make it thicker, longer, shorter, or with different patches and/or colors. Each patch is symbolic and many times a piece has multiple meanings. When Kuba cloth originated it is thought that there were probably no patches used, but because the cloth is brittle it and tears easily, it’s likely that the patches were used to repair the frequent tears. Later each patch developed a meaning and different patterns were uniquely arranged to tell a story. I love this… how the function ultimately became the form.

The process of making Kuba cloth is extremely time-consuming and may take several days to complete a simple piece. Both men and women contribute in equally important ways to the production of this fabric. First, the men first gather the leaves of the raffia tree and dye it using mud, indigo, or substances from the camwood tree. They then rub the raffia fibers in their hands to soften it and make it easier for weaving. After they’ve completed the base cloth the women set about embroidering it. They do this by pulling a few threads of the raffia fibers, inserting them into a needle running the needle through the cloth until the fibers show up on the opposite end. They use a knife and cut off the tops of the fibers, leaving only a little bit showing. Doing this hundreds and hundreds of times leads to the formation of a design. Kuba Cloth designs are seldom planned out ahead of time, and most of the embroidery is done by memory. In my opinion, this is part of what makes each imperfect piece so lovely and, clearly, so unique.


ABOVE | Bedroom | Chair

INCORPORATING KUBA CLOTH IN YOUR HOME
Enchanted yet? There are so many ways that Kuba Cloth can be incorporated into interior spaces, and because of its dramatic design a single piece can make a major statement. Be sure to check out the shopping & inspiration resources below.

In addition to my own, I also wanted to share another Kuba Cloth wall hanging because I really, really love this as a way to showcase a long piece of this pretty fabric.

ABOVE | The Kuba Cloth above hangs in a long hallway of a gorgeous Streeterville condo in Chicago that belongs to a dear friend and former Condé Nast colleague of mine, Pam Dolby. It was placed by her talented designer Cindy Ilagan-Hengge, at the Kiran Design Group.

Admittedly, finding that one perfectly beautiful piece of vintage Kuba Cloth can be like searching for a needle in a haystack and the most stunning pieces are, not surprisingly, expensive. An alternative to finding an original piece of this fabric and transforming it for your space is to simply add a pillow or two. I’ve scoured the sources to share a few of my faves, some authentic Kuba Cloth and one awesome interpretation of it, complete with fun, shiny sequins, by Serena & Lily

 


ABOVE | One | Two | Three | Four | Five

Kuba Cloth and the heritage of this type of fabric is so beloved by tastemakers that a few talented textile designers have created thoughtful interpretations. I simply love these three…


ABOVE | Mally Skok | Mark Alexander | Serena & Lily

Want to know more about Kuba Cloth and/or are you ready to shop? Check these out…

SOURCES | My Sources + More Information
Africa Imports
Kuba Textiles: An Introduction
Wikipedia

SEE MORE | Kuba Cloth Pinterest Boards
Inspired | Kuba Cloth
Kuba Cloth
Kuba Art Cloth

SHOP | Kuba Cloth Sources
Africa and Beyond
D. Bryant Archie
Haba Na Haba
Hamill Tribal Textiles
Kathleen Taylor
L’Aviva Home
Michael Donaldson Antiques
The African Fabric Shop
The Loaded Trunk

Do you have a photo or story to share of how you’ve used Kuba Cloth in an interior space? Comment below and/or email it to info(at)clothandkind(dot)com and I’ll post my favorites to my Kuba Cloth board on Pinterest, which will continue to grow and be an evolving resource for all things Kuba Cloth.

Alt Summit: Guest Pinning


I’m pretty darn excited to announce that I’ve been selected as a guest pinner for Alt Design Summit. Kindly check out my board, Color Lovin’: Blue, and give it a follow. I’ll be pinning the blues on it from now until Alt Summit in January 2013, which I can not wait to attend (first time!) Are you going? Let me know so we can make plans to meet up there. Salt Lake City here we come!

Role Models: Duyos


I saw this beautiful Duyos ensemble on Pinterest (thanks to Tami Ramsay) and immediately saw Eskayel‘s fabrics and wallpapers in both the blotted ink and the watery turquoise blue and pale yellow color palette. Soft & pretty in both fashion & interiors, no?

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